Alpha Hydroxy Acids 101

Alpha Hydroxy Acids 101

luc🌿 What Are AHAs?

Alpha Hydroxy Acids are water-soluble acids typically derived from fruits, milk, or sugar. Unlike physical exfoliants (like scrubs), AHAs gently break down the bonds between dead skin cells on the surface of your skin, allowing them to shed naturally. The result? Brighter, smoother, more even-toned skin.

They’re commonly found in toners, serums, cleansers, and chemical peels — often labeled with buzzwords like “resurfacing,” “brightening,” or “glow.”

🔬 Types of AHAs

Not all AHAs are created equal. Here are some of the most popular ones you’ll see on product labels:

  • Glycolic Acid
    Derived from sugarcane, this is the most potent and widely used AHA. Its small molecular size allows for deeper penetration, making it ideal for tackling  hyperpigmentation and fine lines.

     

  • Lactic Acid
    Gentler than glycolic, lactic acid is derived from milk or sugar and is a great choice for sensitive skin. It hydrates while exfoliating — a two-in-one win.

     

  • Mandelic Acid
    Sourced from bitter almonds, this AHA has a larger molecule size, meaning it penetrates more slowly and causes less irritation. It’s a go-to for acne-prone or sensitive skin.

     

  • Citric & Malic Acids
    These fruit-derived AHAs are often used in combination with other acids to boost antioxidant properties and improve skin tone.

     

✨ How AHAs Work

AHAs target the skin’s surface. They dissolve the “glue” that holds dead skin cells together, encouraging them to slough off. This process reveals the newer, fresher skin underneath — giving you that coveted “lit-from-within” glow.

They also stimulate collagen production, reduce the appearance of fine lines, and help fade hyperpigmentation over time.

🌟 Benefits of AHAs

✔️ Brighter, more even skin tone
✔️ Smoother texture
✔️ Fewer breakouts (especially closed comedones)
✔️ Fading of dark spots and post-acne marks
✔️ Reduction in the appearance of fine lines and sun damage
✔️ Better product absorption (cleared pores = better performance from serums and moisturizers)

🧴 How to Use AHAs in Your Routine

  1. Start Slow
    If you’re new to acids, use them just 2–3 times a week. Build up as your skin adjusts.

     

  2. Choose the Right Formula

     

    • Daily toner? Go for a low-concentration lactic or glycolic acid.

       

    • Weekly treatment? Try a chemical exfoliating mask or peel.

       

  3. Always Follow with SPF
    AHAs make your skin more sensitive to the sun, increasing the risk of sunburn and long-term damage. Daily sunscreen is non-negotiable.

     

  4. Pair Carefully
    Avoid layering with strong actives like retinolvitamin C, or benzoyl peroxide unless guided by a professional — this can lead to irritation or compromised skin barrier.

     

⚠️ Things to Watch Out For

  • Tingling or redness is common when starting, but sharp burning is not. Always patch test.

     

  • Overuse can damage your skin barrier, leading to dryness, sensitivity, or breakouts.

     

  • Pregnant or nursing? Talk to your dermatologist before starting AHAs.

How do you know which AHA product is right for you?

If you’re new to using AHA’s or have sensitive skin, it’s recommended to start with a lower concentration and start slowly. 

For example, trying an AHA product at 5-10% and using once per week would be suitable. 

After you notice that your skin responds well, you can increase usage to twice per week. 

Should you use an AHA serum or cream?? We at Dainty Skin recommend using AHA’s in a cream form. This can reduce the chance or irritation because it is combined with other ingredients that are anti-inflammatory. 

Products to try: AHA and Blue Tansy Night Cream- this cream is formulated with oils that have high amounts of Linoleic Acid, thereby reducing the chance of irritation. Those with sensitive and acne prone skin might find this more suitable.

 

🧠 Final Thoughts

AHAs are a true multitasking hero in modern skincare — whether you’re battling dullness, texture, or signs of aging. They offer visible results and long-term benefits, but like any powerful ingredient, they work best when used mindfully.

Start small, listen to your skin, and let the glow begin.